Perennials with Extended Bloom Periods

These perennials have a colorful bloom period of 10 weeks or more. Plant them to maintain color in your garden for longer periods of time. (right) My Garden boxes in late Summer 2008.

• 'Monch' Aster (Aster frikartii 'Monch')
• Bellflower (Campanula carpatica, C. portenschlagiana)
• Red Valerian (Centranthus ruber)
• Shasta Daisy (Chrysanthemum maximum)
• Yellow Bleeding Heart (Corydalis lutea)
• Fringed Bleeding Heart (Dicentra exima)
• Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
• Blanketflower (Gaillardia)
• Butterfly Flower (Gaura lindheimeri)
• Baby's Breath (Gypsophila)
• Hollyhock (Alcea)
• Bee Balm (Monarda)
• Catmint (Nepeta cataria)
• Russian Sage (Perovskia atriciplifolia)
• Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida)
• Meadow Sage (Salvia nemerosa)
• Showy Stonecrop (Sedum telephium)

Types of Tomatoes

There are five commonly used terms associated with each of the five types of tomatoes. (right) A couple of my Beefsteak Tomatoes from 2008's harvest.

Determinate: Bush-type tomato plants that grow to a certain size, stop and set all their fruit at once.

Indeterminate: Vining-type tomato plants that continue to grow and produce fruit throughout the season.

Patio: Tomato plants that are specifically bred to be small enough to grow in a window box, hanging basket or small container.

Heirloom: Non-hybrid tomatoes that have been grown for generations. Known for their exceptional flavors and rich colors, heirloom tomatoes have stuck around because of the careful cultivation and the seed saving skills of generations of gardeners throughout the world.

Hybrid: Tomato plants that have been developed to be more disease resistant and uniform in production for large-scale food processing - in some cases, at the expense of true tomato flavor.

Purple Top White Globe Turnip

I started with Purple Top White Globe Turnip (Brassica rapa) seeds from the Seed Savers Exchange. I planted them directly into the garden 1/4" deep and 4-6" apart. This variety of Turnip has been widely used since before 1880 and produces uniform 6" smooth white globes that are best for eating when 3-4" in diameter. They have a sweet mild fne-grained white flesh and a bright purple and white exterior. Turnips are biennial and will cross-polinate, so seperate by 1 mile from other turnips when going to seed the second year.

Growing Tips: Turnips prefer cool weather and full sun. Soil should be kept moist but not wet. Turnips are companion plants to onions and peas and can be planted near them.

Starting from Seed: Sow seeds as soon as soil can be prepared in the Spring or late July or early August (for a fall-winter crop). Plant seeds 1/4" - 1/2" deep, 2" between seeds in rows that are 24" apart. Thin to 4-6" between plants.

Harvesting: Turnips mature in 45-65 days and should be harvested when they reach 3" in diameter.

Scarlet Globe Radish

I started with Early Scarlet Globe Radish seeds from Ed Hume Seeds. This particular variety is great for eating fresh, using in salads or as garnish. I planted the seeds directly into the garden 1/4 deep, 2" apart in two rows, 2" apart. Radishes are an easy to grow crop that yields rapidly and can be planted from March through September.

Growing Tips: Radishes prefer full to partial sun. Radish grows best in the spring and autumn but will tolerate light winter frosts.

Harvesting Tips: Radishes mature and are ready for harvest in 24 days. Pull radishes when they are up to 1" in diameter and relatively young. Check your radishes often because the window of when they go from tasty to terrible is a relatively short period of time.

Starting from Seed: Sow seeds directly into the vegetable garden anytime soil is workable from March to September. Avoid planting radishes during really hot weather. Cover seeds with 1/4" of light soil. Leave 6 to 12 inches between rows, or in smaller gardens, space plants 2 inches apart in all directions. Germinates in approximately 1 week, keep soil moderately moist during germination.

White Marigolds

Marigolds will bloom from mid-summer until the first frost. They give off a pungent odor that adds a lovely smell to any outdoor garden plus, the aroma of marigolds are not favored by many garden insects making them a natural companion plant in vegetable gardens to keep insects away. Marigolds are very easy to grow from seed, start indoors and transplant outdoors after the first frost for best results. (right) My White Marigolds in late August 2009.

Growing Tips: White Marigolds prefer full to partial sun and water as needed. Remove dead flower blooms to encourage new growth.

Climbing French Beans

I started with Seed Savers Exchange Climbing French Bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) seeds. I planted them directly into the garden in full sun on August 22, 2009 for a fall crop. In the 1930's, Climbing French Beans were reportedly the most widely grown French bean in England, according to The Beans of New York. These beans produce 4 -7" inch stringless pods with lilac flowers and are great for eating raw. There seeds are shiny and dark purple. Climbing varieties of beans will produce pods all summer while dwarf compact bush beans tend to crop over a relatively short period of time.

Growing Tips: French Beans prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Area should be sheltered since beans can be vulnerable to chilly winds. Climbing beans will need support to grow, a trellis often works perfectly. Do not water young plants unless dry or the plant will focus on growing leaves, not peas. Once flowers develop, start watering on a regular basis. Water carefully at the roots, taking care not to splash the foliage.

Starting from Seed: Sow seeds outdoors after the danger of frost has passed and the soil and air temperatures have warmed (around early May). Also can be grown in late summer for a fall harvest. Seeds should be planted in an area where they have a spade and a half's depth to root since climbing beans are deep rooters. Plant seeds 1" deep and 2" apart in rows 36 - 48" apart.

Natural Pest Control: Aphids, both black and green can form colonies on growing shoots. If you are growing organic, rub off early colonies as soon as you spot them. Growing asters, marigolds and sedums near your beans will attract friendly pest predators that eat aphids.

Harvesting: French beans mature in 65 - 75 days and can be harvested late into summer so long as the crop is kept well watered. French beans suffer if they become too thirsty. Pick young and pick often. Young French bean pods are far tastier than mature pods. If you can see bean shapes bulging along the pods, the beans are past their best.

Tomatillos and When to Harvest

Tomatillo is also known as Toma Verde or the Green Tomato. It is not a tomato, it is a member of the nightshade family, related to tomatoes. Tomatillos are grown like a tomato and the leaves and plant look similar to a tomato however, that is where the similarities end. Most people don't know what to expect when growing Tomatillos because many people are generally unfamiliar with them.

The fruit of a Tomatillo is green (there are also purple and yellow varieties often grown outside the U.S.) and about the size of a small tomato or large cherry tomato. The inside flesh is white and meatier than a regular tomato and tomatillos grow inside a thin paper-like husk. The interesting thing is that the husk forms first and looks like a paper lantern hanging from the branches (see above image - My Tomatillo plant on August 21, 2009) and then the fruit grows inside until it fills the husk. If you look up at your Tomatillo from below the plant, you can see inside the husk and see your Tomatillo growing. Tomatillo plants often grow to about 5 or 6 feet tall and require caging or a support trellis.

Harvesting: Tomatillos are ripe when the paper-like husk turns brown and breaks open. Remove the husk and rinse the oily substance off. Store in a cool, dry place until you are ready to use them.

Button Box Zinnia

I started with Button Box Zinnia's (Zinnia elegans) in mixed colors from Lake Valley Seeds. I started the seeds indoors in peet pods and transplanted outdoors in mid-summer. This specific variety of Zinnia grows quite tall, around 2 - 3 feet and produce an abundance of flowers that bloom from midsummer until frost. They are easy to grow and thrive in hot areas however, be prepared to provide support for these Zinnia's as they do grow tall and skinny. (right) My Button Box Zinnia's in full bloom in August 2009. I started these from seed in late May.


Growing Tips: Zinnia's prefer full sun and regular waterings. To avoid spreading disease to the plant leaves (which is a common problem with Zinnia's), water plants at their base taking care to keep the foliage dry. Remove faded flowers to encourage new blooms.

Starting from Seed: Sow directly in the garden after danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed. Seeds may be started indoors 4 weeks before planting outdoors. Transplant carefully so as not to disturb the roots. Space seeds 10 - 12 inches apart, 1/4 inch deep. Seeds should sprout in 10 - 12 days outdoors or 2 - 6 days indoors. Plant as an annual.

How to Test your Soil pH

Soil pH determines a plant's ability to absorb nutrients. When the pH is off (too high or too low), the nutrients in the soil become locked up and unavailable. On the pH scale 7 is neutral, less than 7 is acidic and more than 7 is alkaline. The majority of plants prefer neutral soil therefore it is very important to determine the pH of your soil prior to planting. There are a variety of ways to test your soil.

How to test your soil pH balance:

• Smell and taste the soil: An acid soil will be sour.
• Place a soil sample in a jar of vinegar: If the vinegar bubbles, the soil is sweet and neutral and planting may commence.
• Purchase a soil pH test kit: Comes with detailed instructions and can be found at your local nursery.

How to Fix your Soil pH:

• Sweeten a sour or acid soul by raising the pH. Incorporate agricultural lime.
• Balance an alkaline soil by lowering the pH. Incorporate sulfur or cottonseed meal.

Vegetables and herbs that require sweet soil: asparagus, beets, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, chard, lavender, leeks, nasturtiums, onions, rosemary, spinach, sweet peas and thyme.

Vegetables, fruit and herbs that require acid soil: apple, blueberries, brambleberries, carrots, eggplant, parsley, potato, pumpkin and tomato.

In addition to balancing your soil pH, you should also know that you should not plant the same vegetable or crop in the same location as the previous harvest. If you do plant something in the same place, you will need to add nutrients to the soil since the previous harvest will have removed or added other nutrients that could hinder the growth and development of the new crop.

Connecticut Field Pumpkins

The most traditional pumpkin is the Jack-o-Lantern or as it is officially known, the Connecticut Field Pumpkin. They typically grow to 10 and 20 pounds, are bright orange and are perfect for Halloween carving. They are not especially good for eating, they are plain tasting and not very sweet and can be a bit watery if using for pie. However, this is the most common choice of home gardeners and commercial growers. (right) My Jack-o-Lantern pumpkin from Halloween 2008. (below) The pumpkin patch at Baggenstos Farm.

Growing Tips: All pumpkin varieties prefer full sun, at least 6 hours of direct each day. Soil should be kept moist but not wet. Most pumpkins require 110 - 140 frost free growing days, see the Starting from Seed section below for proper planting dates.

Starting from Seed: Pumpkins are tender annuals so note that frost will kill them and cold weather will stunt their growth when starting plants. Soak your seeds the night before planting to make sprouting easier and faster. Plant pumpkin seeds in the middle of small mounds (mounds should be 10 feet apart from other mounds) that are about 3 feet in diameter. Surround each mound with a moat, about 4" wide and 4" deep to help contain water around the roots. Plant 4 - 5 seeds in a circle in the middle of the mound, space seeds 6 - 8 inches apart and cover with at least 1" of soil so the birds don't eat them. After two weeks, thin to two or three of the strongest and largest plants per mound. When to plant your seeds:

• Giant Pumpkins: Start indoors from April 25 - May 15, transplant after the first true leaves form, provide cold and frost protection.
• Jack-o-Lanterns and Field Pumpkins: Directly sow into the garden from May 15 - June 15, provide cold and frost protection, if needed.
• Miniature Pumpkins: Direct sow into the garden from May 15 - July 1.
  

How to get rid of Slugs

Slugs can be huge garden pests especially for those that grow lettuce, beans, peas and a large variety of other vegetables and flowers. There are many ways to get rid of slugs, some naturally and others chemically. The key is to getting rid of the slugs and snails before they cause too much damage to your garden. I have provided multiple methods for natural repellents for organic gardening and chemical methods.

Getting rid of Slugs Naturally and Organically:

• Apply pea gravel, broken egg shells or sand around the base of the plants (but not touching or packed up against the plants) that you want to protect, about 2" deep. Slugs do not like to climb over these things and sand will also discourage weed growth.
• Place a half-full beer can(s) near the area that you want to protect. The slugs will attract to the beer instead of your plants.
• Go out every evening, just when it starts to get dark or every morning, just when it starts to get light - these are when most slugs are out - and pick off all the slugs from your garden. In the daytime, slugs tend to sleep under garden containers and terra-cotta pots, if you have these, lift them up and you will probably find the slugs underneath.
• Apply copper plating to your raised garden beds. Slugs don't like it and gives them a mild shock from crawling on it.

Getting rid of Slugs Chemically:

• In a 1-quart spray bottle, mix 1 1/2 cups non-sudsing ammonia and 1 1/2 cups water. Spray in areas where slug damage is evident. This will dissolve baby slugs on contact while the ammonia will break down into the form of nitrogen and feed the plants.
• Or you can buy Corey's Slug Bait or Ortho Eco-Sense Slug and Snail Killer.

Lucky Bamboo

Lucky Bamboo is one of the perfect house or office plants as it needs little care. About an inch of water and little direct sunlight to keep happy. What many people do not know, is Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena) is not a bamboo at all. It is a resilient member of the lily family that grows in dark, tropical rainforests of Southeast Asia and Africa. (right) My Lucky Bamboo.

Growing Tips: Lucky Bamboo prefers fresh water - 1" of the base of the canes should be submerged - and plenty of indirect sunlight with room temperatures at 65 - 70 degrees fahrenheit. You can also add a mild fertilizer occassionally to help it thrive such as African Violet Fertilizer.

Why are the Leaves turning Yellow?: The two most common factors that cause the leaves to turn yellow and the stems to eventually yellow and die are 1) Too much direct sunlight; and 2) Too salty water or flouridated tap water.

Tulips

Tulips are often the first sign of Spring since they bloom in early March through April. While Tulips are often associated with Holland, the Tulip originally hails from Persia, where Tulip means "turban". (right) My Red Tulip Valentines bouquet in 2008.

Growing Tips: Tulips prefer full sun and sandy, well drained soil.

Planting Tips: Plant bulbs in late October and early November for Spring flowers. Tulip bulbs should be planted in a depth three times the length of the bulb (typically 6 inches deep). Set the bulbs pointed-end up.

Perennial Tips: Tulips are classified as perennials but often need to be treated as annuals to promote better blooming the following season. At the end of the blooming season, dig up your tulips once all the foliage has died. Store the bulbs in a cool, dry place and replant in the fall. This does not mean Tulips will not come back if you don't dig them up and replant. You can also wait for the blooms and foliage to die back (foliage should be completely yellow) and then deadhead the plants. Fertilize in fall and you can expect blooms the following season, although they may not be as large or long lasting as the first year.

How to cut Fresh Flowers

Everyone enjoys fresh cut flowers from the garden, but how do you properly care for the flowers so the blooms last longer and plants stay healthier? There are a few simple things you can do to properly cut and keep your fresh flowers and have beautiful bouquets for much longer.

How to properly cut fresh flowers:

1. Fill your clean vase with cool water, adding 1 tablespoon of flower food or 1 teaspoon of bleach to every gallon of water to prevent bacterial growth (bacterial growth will shorten the flower's vase life).
2. Remove all foliage that might fall below the water line as well as damaged foliage and all thorns.
3. While holding the flower stem under cool, running water, cut at least two inches off the bottom of each stem at a sharp angle to maximize water uptake. Place cut flowers in vase immediately.
4. Split or mash woody plants stems with a hammer at least two inches above the cut to further encourage them to absorb water. Most woody stems will benefit from a warm water soak for the first hour following a fresh cut.
5. Maintain proper water levels at all times and avoid extreme conditions when placing your final bouquet.

Special Techniques and Quick Fixes:

• To straighten curled stems, most notably Tulips, carefully wrap the entire bunch of flowers in a damp newspaper forming a straight tube. Secure with a rubber band and submerge in water for an hour or two. Unwrap and the stems should have straightened.

'Lucifer' Crocosmia

I have noticed these lovely flowers all over my neighborhood recently. They are a blog display of stiff, sword-like foliage with tall, slightly arched clusters of intense, bright colored blooms. Blooms appear from mid to late summer. These plants are called Crocosmia 'Lucifer'. They make excellent cut flowers, for best results, cut when half the flowers are open.

Growing Tips: Crocosmia prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Plant in groups of 5 or more for intense color impact. Grows well in containers.

Perennial Tips: Apply a heavy winter mulch, taking care not to cover the root base, in Northern climates.

Common Purple Lilacs

Lilacs are low-maintenance, aromatic shrubs and will grow several feet tall offering good summer shade and privacy from neighbors. One thing to know about Lilacs is they do not like to have their roots wet for prolonged periods of time. Lilacs grow best on hillsides, elevated areas or level ground with very good drainage. (right) My mother's Lilac bush, the Common Purple Lilac (Syringa Vulgaris).

Growing Tips: Lilacs prefer full sun to partial shade and infrequent but thorough waterings as they have deep roots. Fertilize in early spring to promote blooming, too much nitrogen in the soil will result in poor blooming. Repeat fertilizer after blooms have disappeared.

Perennial Tips: Mulch around the plant 2" - 4" deep but not directly on the base of the plant for winter. Be aware that mice and moles are the biggest pests of Lilacs and during winters will chew on the bark of the stems near ground level and can kill your Lilac plant, you can help prevent this by keeping the mulch away from the root base.

Peas do grow in Summer

This year, I was told and read that it was too late to plant Snow Peas and Sugar Snap Peas from seed. I decided to try anyways so I planted the seeds directly into the garden on May 18th (it is said peas should be planted right after the 1st frost as soon as soil is workable or in late summer for a fall crop, peas are a cool weather plant). Turns out, peas do grow in Summer! My plants are about 6 feet tall and flowering like crazy and just the other day, a pea pod emerged and more are quickly following. (right) My first pea pod in July 2009.

Go ahead, plant your peas in late Spring, what's the worst that could happen? If you don't get peas, the plants themselves are quite lovely to look at.

Summertime Orange African Daisy

I started with two different colors of African Daisy starter plants, Summertime Orange from the Symphony Series and Summertime Pink from the Passion Mix. I planted them into medium sized terra-cotta pots in full sun. African Daisies bloom best during cool weather and will brighten up your garden in Spring and Fall when garden color is minimal. African Daisies are recognized by their bright flowers and darker colored centers and can bloom white, peach, orange, yellow, pink, lavender or purple flowers. (right) My African 'orange' Daisies in September 2008.

Growing Tips: African Daisies prefer full sun and the potting mix should be light, moist and well drained. Fertilize every two weeks with half strength fertilizer. Deadhead to encourage new growth, pinch young blooms to encourage bushiness. Grows to 12" - 20" and spreads 10" - 20".

Triple Curled Parsley

I started with seeds of Triple Curled Parsley (Petroselinum hortensis) from Seed Savers Heirloom Seeds. This particular seed pack was packed in 2008 and is a biennial. I started my seeds indoors in pods, while sprouting they were kept covered in a dark room and once leaves started to develop, I moved the plants into a sunny window, uncovered. The plants at about 3" tall were transplanted into a terra-cotta pot and kept in the sunny window until they were strong enough to be moved outdoors to full sun. (right) My Curled Parsley on July 2, 2009 after moving outside.

Growing Tips: Curled Parsley prefers full sun to partial shade and well drained, rich soil.

Seeding: Sow seeds outdoors 1/4" deep when there is still a chance of a light frost (or sow indoors year-round). Seeds germinate in 14-21 days.

Harvesting: Harvest Parsley anytime after 30 days when leaves are curly and green. Trim off and use as needed.

Titan Lilac Vinca

I started with a 4" starter plant, Titan Lilac Vinca from Al's Garden Center. I planted it directly into a medium sized terra-cotta pot in partial shade. Vinca are compact, bushy, glossy-leaved plants with showy bright colored flowers. This particular variety has blooms that are a bright lilac color. Vinca grows best in naturally shaded areas with filtered sunlight. It can also be used as a groundcover, it prevents weeds and soil erosion. In really hot weather, it should be moved to full shade during the hottest parts of the day. (right) My Titan Lilac Vinca after its first bloom in June 2009.

Growing Tips: Vinca prefers full sun (where weather is cooler) or partial shade. Water 2-3 times per week until established. Will grow to 14" - 16" tall.

Perennial Tips: If Vinca outgrows its space, it can be sheared back hard in early spring. The sheared off ends may root along the stems.

Astro Arugula II

I started with seeds of Astro Arugula II (Greens, Arugula/Roquette) from Johnny's Selected Seeds. This particular seed packet was tested for germ in March 2009 at 90%. Arugula is a vitamin-rich green with a tangy and peppery (or mustard-like) flavor that is wonderful in winter salads and cooked dishes. (right) My Arugula on Day 15, July 2, 2009. Sprouts are about 1" tall with small leaves on top. (bottom right) My Arugula on August 21, 2009.

Growing Tips: Arugula can be grown in full sun or partial shade in early spring and mid-summer and is well adapted to growing in cool greenhouses. Plant in well-drained garden soil. To slow bolting by keeping the soil evenly moist and providing some shade for warm-season plantings (this is traditional a cool-weather plant).

Seeding: Sow from early spring through mid-summer. Sow thinly, covering seeds 1/4" in rows about 18" apart. Thin to about 8" - 12" apart.

Harvesting: Arugula matures in 60 days, begin harvest at about 30 - 40 days after sowing. Arugula should be harvested before flowering however, they flowers are edible.

Sunflowers

I started with a 12" Sunflower from Al's Garden Center. Some consider Sunflower's a flower, others consider it a vegetable. Technically, it can be considered both because it is a flower that holds a great seed, full of protein and great for snacking. Sunflowers are basically seperated into three sizes, Giants which grow to over 10 feet, Regulars which grow from 6 - 10 feet and Miniatures which grow from 2 - 4 feet. (right) My miniature Sunflower on June 30, 2008. Minis are great for container gardening but not for seed harvest. (below) My miniature Sunflower on July 4th, 2009, this was its first bloom.

Growing Tips: Sunflowers prefer full sun and if grown in containers, the container should be deep and wide. Sunflowers need to grow their roots deep and wide to enable them to withstand winds and hold up their weight, especially the giant varieties. See 'Seeding' for spacing.

Placement: Sunflower blooms will always point their bloom faces to the rising sun in the East, keep this in mind when choosing a location for your Sunflowers.

Pests: Birds and Squirrels will start eating the Sunflower seeds before the seeds are completely ripe. To protect your plant, cover with a nylon stalking or netting.

Harvesting: Sunflowers mature in 70 - 90 days depending on the variety. Harvest seeds when the flower begins to die back and most the petals have fallen off. Cut off the flower head, leaving a few inches of the stalk, hang the stalks to dry in a well ventilated area. Do not stack to dry, this encourages mold. Once the flowers have dried, rub two flower heads together to extract the seeds which should release quite easily.

Seeding: Sunflower seeds are best grown outdoors directly into the garden however, after planting, cover the seeds with a screen because birds and animals often will dig these delicious seeds up. Based on the variety of Sunflower you are growing, spacing requirements change, see below.

• Giants: Space 3' feet apart in rows 3' - 4' apart.
• Regular: Space 2' feet apart in rows 3' apart

• Miniatures: Space 1' foot apart in rows 3' apart.

Cayenne Hot Pepper

I started with a 12" plant, Cayenne Hot Pepper grown locally from Iwasaki Bros. Cayenne Peppers are long, slender, very hot peppers that start out dark green and ripen to bright red. They are very strong, upright plants that love hot weather. Cayenne Peppers can be used for canning, drying, chili, salsa, pickling or eaten fresh. I planted my Cayenne Pepper in a large plastic container in full sun. (right) Some of my garden harvest from September 2008 including Jalapenos, Cayenne Peppers and Tomatoes.

Growing Tips: Cayenne Peppers prefer full sun and water regularly, especially in hot, dry summer months. Plant 18" - 24" apart in rows 24" - 36" apart.

Harvesting: Cayenne Peppers mature in 70 -75 days, harvest when fruit is bright red by clipping them off the plant, do not pull off.

Golden Bell Pepper : Organic

I started with a 6" starter plant, USDA Organic Golden Bell Pepper (Chile Campana Dorada) locally grown from Smith Gardens. Golden Bell Peppers are more sweet than spicy and have a beautiful golden yellow skin and flesh. I planted my Golden Bell Pepper directly into a large, deep plastic container in full sun. (right) My Bell Pepper is just starting to produce fruit about 1/2" - 1" in size.

Growing Tips: Bell Peppers prefer full sun and water regularly, especially in the hot, dry summer months (lack of water will give peppers a bitter taste). Bell Peppers grow 18" - 24" tall. Space plants 18" apart in rows 24" - 36" apart. Bell Peppers have very deep roots and require large, deep pots if grown in containers. Fertilize monthly.

Harvesting: Golden Bell Peppers mature in 75 days, harvest when fruit is golden yellow and firm.

Bay Laurel

I started with a 3" starter plant, Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis) from Al's Garden Center. Bay Laurel is an evergreen shrub or small tree often grown as a tender perennial. It has aromatic foliage, cream flowers and dark berries. Bay Laurel leaves are used fresh or dried in soups, stews, meat dishes and French cooking. I planted my Bay Laurel into a small terra-cotta pot with the intent of transplanting at a later date. (right) This is my larger Bay Laurel, I have two, in June 2009. It is just starting to show the first signs of new growth since last summer.

Growing Tips: Bay Laurel prefers full sun to partial sun and requires well drained soil. Grows up to 5 feet tall in pot culture and grows best in containers.

Harvesting: Bay Laurel leaves can be harvested directly from the plant as needed or for drying.

Perennial Tips: Move indoors during winter in zones 7 or colder and place in a well lighted area or window.

My Garden: June 2009

Above is a photo of my herb and vegetable garden on June 25, 2009 in the early evening.

Organic Jalapeno Pepper

I started with a 6" starter plant, USDA Organic Jalapeno Pepper locally grown from Smith Gardens. I planted my Jalapeno Pepper in a large plastic container in full sun next to all my other pepper plants. (right) My Jalapeno Plant from last year (2008). I grew it directly in my garden bed and it grew great, I had more fruit than I knew what to do with from the single plant.

Growing Tips: Jalapenos prefer full sun and lots of water. Space the plants 24" apart with about 2 - 3 feet between rows. Plants grow to about 3 feet tall. You can also mix in mushroom compost to make the soil fertile and moist. Fertilize monthly.

Harvesting: Jalapenos mature in 120 days. Pick when fruit is dark green and full size.

Sunlight Marquerite Daisy

I started with two 4" starter plants, 'Sunlight' Marquerite Daisy (Argyranthemum frutescens), premium Annual's from Al's Garden Center. I planted each plant in its own medium sized terra-cotta pot in full sun. These plants produce delicate daisylike yellow flowers with fine foliage all summer and will attract butterflies to the garden. (right) One of my Marquerite Daisies in bloom in late June.

Growing Tips: Marquerite Daisies prefer full sun or part sun and will grow to 24" - 36" tall. In the ground, water 2-3 times weekly until established. In containers or baskets, water daily or as needed.

Pequin Pepper

I started with a 3' plant, Pequin Pepper from Al's Garden Center. Pequin Peppers are bright red (but can be picked when they are still green) and about 8 times hotter than a Jalapeno Pepper. They tend to look like outdoor christmas lights when they are ripe due to their size and color. I planted my Pequin Pepper into a large plastic container in full sun next to all my other pepper plants in the garden. (right) My Pequin Pepper plant right after transplant on June 25, 2009. (bottom right) My first Pequin Pepper that is ripening on August 21, 2009.

Growing Tips: Pequin Peppers grow naturally in the wild in Texas and prefer full sun and hot weather.

Harvesting: Pequin Peppers can be harvested when the peppers are bright red or still green. Harvested peppers can be stored in freezer bags in the freezer for 6 - 12 months without loosing much of their heat or flavor.

Red Sails Lettuce

I started with six 4" starter plants of Red Sails Lettuce from Al's Garden Center. I planted them directly into the garden 6" apart in two rows 6" apart in full sun. Red Sails lettuce is a loose-leaf lettuce with bronze-red, crinkled leaves. (right) My lettuce on June 25th, 2009, it is about 6" now.

Growing Tips: Red Sails Lettuce prefers full sun in Spring and Fall, part sun in Summer. Plant 8" apart.

Harvesting: Red Sails Lettuce matures in 45 days, cut off at base.

Safari Yellow Marigold

I started with multiple 4" starter plants of Safari Yellow Marigolds from Tanasacres Nursery. Marigolds naturally repel many garden pests so I planted them all around my vegetable, herb and flower garden. Marigolds bloom all summer and are very aromatic which make them a wonderful splash of color for any garden. (right) My Safari Yellow Marigolds mixed with an orange marigold plant in a single pot.

Growing Tips: Marigolds prefer full sun and planted 4" - 12" apart (the tags will typically suggest a 12" distance between plants but they will grow much closer together and fill in very nicely). Can grow up to 12" tall. Pinch off heads of old flowers to promote new growth.

Darla Light Pink Diascia

I started with a 6" plant of Darla Light Pink Diascia from Al's Garden Center. It is a premium annual and a Diascia hybrid (P.P.A.F. Dalla Litpink). I planted it in full sun in a medium sized terra-cotta pot. (right) My flowering plant a few days after transplant.

Growing Tips: Darla Diascia prefers full sun and water 2-3 times per week until established. It will grow 15" - 18" tall and should be grown as an annual.

Roma Tomato

I started with a 4" starter plant, La Roma Tomato from Tanasacres Nursery. I planted my roma directly into the garden in full sun with a trellis to climb. Roma's are one of the best Italian -type tomatoes known for its outstanding vigor and heavy yields. (right top) My Roma Tomatoe on June 22, 2009, it is about 3' feet tall and is starting to flower. (right bottom) My Roma Tomato plant on August 22, 2009, new fruit. I have already harvested around 20 tomatoes from this plant. The tomatoes are very sweet and plump.

Growing Tips: Roma Tomatoes prefer full sun and consistent soil moisture. Water regularly throughout summer. Starting in August, water every other day. Space plants 24" - 36" apart in rows 36" - 48" apart.

Harvesting: Roma Tomatoes mature in 62 days, pick when fruit is bright red and firm.

Brandywine Heirloom Tomato

I started with a 4" starter plant, Brandywine Heirloom Tomato from Al's Garden Center. This specific variety is a 1885 heirloom Amish with large rose-pink fruit. I planted my Brandywine directly into the garden with a trellis to climb in full sun. (right) My Brandywine on August 21, 2009. Fruit is starting to grow quite large, around 5 - 6 inches in size. This is one of the larger tomatoes that has yet to ripen.

Growing Tips: Brandywine Tomatoes prefer full sun, plant 24" - 36" apart in rows 36" - 48" apart. Water regularly throughout summer. In August, water every other day to promote fruit growth.

Harvesting: Brandywine Tomatoes mature in 90 -100 days, pick when fruit is rose-pink and firm.

Jubilee Heirloom Tomato

I started with a 4" starter plant, Jubilee Heirloom Tomato from Chef Jeff's. Jubilee's are a bright orange color with a mild flavor and meaty texture, they are also less acidic than regular tomatoes. These make great tomatoes for those who cannot tolerate the high acid content of regular tomatoes. (right) My first ripe fruit on my Jubilee on August 21, 2009.

Growing Tips: Jubilee Tomatoes prefer full sun and require staking or a trellis to climb. Water regularly through summer. Starting in August, water every other day to help fruit develop. They will grow to 4' - 5' tall.

Harvesting: Jubilee's take 80 days to mature, pick when bright orange and firm.

Catnip

I started with two 4" starter plants, Catnip from Al's Garden Center. I planted my catnip side by side in a long terra-cotta pot in full sun. Catnip is a natural insect repellent against aphids, Colorado potato beetles and squash bugs. In addition, Catnip has a chemical called nepetalactone that is naturally found in the leaves of both catnip and catmint, this chemical is a natural deer repellent. (right) My catnip in late June. I placed it in the middle row of my herb garden.

Growing Tips: Catnip prefers full sun or partial shade. Pinch tips throughout the growing season to delay flowering. Once finished blooming, cut them back by one-third to one-half to encourage new growth for late summer, early fall.

Vitana Carrots

I started with six 6" starter plants, Vitana Carrots from Haggen. I planted them directly into a oversized terra-cotta pot in full sun. These carrots grow 6" - 7" roots and have a mild and sweet flavor with semi to fully blunt tips. (right) My carrots after transplant on June 22, 2009.

Growing Tips: Vitana Carrots prefer full sun and deep, loose soil. Plant in rows 16" - 24" apart.

Harvesting: Vitana Carrots mature in 65 days, you can pull from the garden when carrots are a bright orange, not pale. When they reach their bright orange color, harvesting generally lasts about 3 weeks. If you pull your carrots and they are cracked, they are past their harvest and will lack flavor and appearance.

Tomatillo : Organic

I started with one 2' starter plant Organic Tomatillo from Whole Foods. I planted it in a large, deep terra-cotta pot with a tomato cage for support in full sun. I did not know when I purchased this plant it needed a partner to cross-pollinate, so I am going to see what happens. At the very least, it is leafy and lovely to look at. (right) My lonely tomatillo on June 19, 2009.

Growing Tips: Tomatillo prefers full sun, hot weather (90 - 100 degrees fahrenheit) and lots of water. Grows 2 - 5' tall, plant 2' - 3' apart with a cage or lattis for support. Tomatillos are self-pollinating but are also self-incompatible meaning, two or more plants are needed to cross pollinate.

Harvesting: Tomatillo matures in about 70 days, harvest when fruit is 2" in diameter and green, remove husks before cooking.

Sweet Basil

I started with two 4" starter plants of Sweet Basil from Al's Garden Center. I planted each in its own large plastic container in full sun. (right) My two basil plants about 2 weeks after original transplant on June 19, 2009.

Growing Tips: Basil prefers a warm, sheltered location in full sun. The soil should be moist and well drained. Pinch tips regularly to promote bushy growth and remove all flower spikes.

Placement: Grow basil next to tomatoes for healthier, tastier plants.

Harvesting: Basil can be harvested throughout the growing season, simply clip the plant at the end of a stem, new growth will occur where clipped. For year round harvest, grow the plant indoors in a sunny window.

Cherry Tomatoes

I started with a 6" starter plant, Cherry Tomato from Chef Jeff's. I planted it into a large, deep terra-cotta pot with a tomato cage for climbing in full sun. (right) My cherry tomatoes getting ready for harvest in September 2008.

Growing Tips: Cherry Tomatoes prefer full sun and something to climb however, this variety is a shorter, stocky plant. Plant 2' - 3' apart.

Placement: Grow your tomatoes next to basil and both will grow larger and healthier.

Harvesting: You can harvest your tomatoes throughout the growing season as they ripen. They are a prolific bearer and will mature in 68 days. (right) My Cherry Tomato plant in early October 2007. The tomatoes were very sweet and tasty.

Mint

I started with a 4" starter Mint plant from Al's Garden Center. I planted my mint directly into a small terra-cotta pot which it quickly outgrew in about one week. Mint is a vigorous grower and is best controlled in container gardening. I have transplanted it into a larger 'bowl-like' terra-cotta pot and it is now a little over a foot tall. (right) My mint before transplanting to its larger container in June.

Growing Tips: Mint prefers full sun and partial shade. Bring indoors for winter harvest.

Harvesting: Harvest mint leaves throughout the growing season.

English Cucumber

I started with four 4" starter plants, English Cucumber from Al's Garden Center. I planted my cucumber directly into the back row of the garden with a trellis for climbing support. (right top) My cucumber starter plants in June 2008. (right bottom) My first signs of cucumber on July 23, 2008.

Growing Tips: Cucumber prefers full sun, well drained and moist soil. It also needs some sort of support or trellis due to its climbing growth habbit. Cucumbers prefer temperatures around 70 degrees fahrenheit so be sure to plant after all risks of frost have passed.

Harvesting: Cucumbers can be harvested when full size, clip off the vine from stem.

Rosemary

I started with two 6" starter plants of Rosemary from Bonnie Plants. I planted my rosemary in large terra-cotta pots in full sun. Rosemary will draw honey bees to your garden, repel carrot flies outdoors and moths indoors. (right) My rosemary after transplant.

Growing Tips: Rosemary prefers full sun but tolerates partial shade. Grows to about 2' - 6' high and 2' - 3' wide. Water thoroughly when soil is dry, do not let soil dry out completely. Cuttings can be taken from the plant in spring to start new plants.

Harvesting: Rosemary can be harvested anytime, simply trim off stems from plant. Strip the leaves from the stems for fresh use. Rosemary should be brought inside before the first frost for year-round harvest.

Perennial Tips: Plants will become thin and lanky every few years. If being used for harvest, start over with a new rosemary plant every three years or so.

Daffodils

When I moved into my current house in the Fall, I had no idea there were even daffodil bulbs in the garden so it was a pleasant surprise when spring arrived. Daffodils are typically one of the first flowers to arrive in early spring (April) and will return year after year. Plus, they don't require much maintenance. (right) My daffodils in April 2008.


Growing Tips: Daffodils prefer full to partial sun and will grow in practically any type of soil. Plant bulbs 6" - 8" underground in October. They will bloom in late March or early April, no watering required (in the NW).


Perennial Tips: After blooming finishes and plants start to die, when leaves turn yellow, deadhead the plants (cut off to the ground) for new blooms to return the following year.

Chives

I started with chives from seed and starter plants, both work very well and are easy to grow. I planted my starter plants in a medium-sized terra-cotta pot (two plants in a single pot). This way, when I harvest one plant, the other will be growing for a constant harvest. (right) My chives in June 2008 right after I transplanted the starters.

Growing Tips: Chives prefer full sun and moist, well drained soil. If not growing for flowers, cut the plant to the ground two or three times during the growing season to promote fresh growth from the base. Bring indoors for the winter if grown in containers for year round harvest or keep outside and they will come back in spring.

Placement: Grow chives and carrots in close proximity, when grown together, carrots tend to grow larger.

Harvesting: Clip from plant as needed or two to three times during the growing season harvest the entire plant, clipping at the ground.