Purple Top White Globe Turnip

I started with Purple Top White Globe Turnip (Brassica rapa) seeds from the Seed Savers Exchange. I planted them directly into the garden 1/4" deep and 4-6" apart. This variety of Turnip has been widely used since before 1880 and produces uniform 6" smooth white globes that are best for eating when 3-4" in diameter. They have a sweet mild fne-grained white flesh and a bright purple and white exterior. Turnips are biennial and will cross-polinate, so seperate by 1 mile from other turnips when going to seed the second year.

Growing Tips: Turnips prefer cool weather and full sun. Soil should be kept moist but not wet. Turnips are companion plants to onions and peas and can be planted near them.

Starting from Seed: Sow seeds as soon as soil can be prepared in the Spring or late July or early August (for a fall-winter crop). Plant seeds 1/4" - 1/2" deep, 2" between seeds in rows that are 24" apart. Thin to 4-6" between plants.

Harvesting: Turnips mature in 45-65 days and should be harvested when they reach 3" in diameter.

Scarlet Globe Radish

I started with Early Scarlet Globe Radish seeds from Ed Hume Seeds. This particular variety is great for eating fresh, using in salads or as garnish. I planted the seeds directly into the garden 1/4 deep, 2" apart in two rows, 2" apart. Radishes are an easy to grow crop that yields rapidly and can be planted from March through September.

Growing Tips: Radishes prefer full to partial sun. Radish grows best in the spring and autumn but will tolerate light winter frosts.

Harvesting Tips: Radishes mature and are ready for harvest in 24 days. Pull radishes when they are up to 1" in diameter and relatively young. Check your radishes often because the window of when they go from tasty to terrible is a relatively short period of time.

Starting from Seed: Sow seeds directly into the vegetable garden anytime soil is workable from March to September. Avoid planting radishes during really hot weather. Cover seeds with 1/4" of light soil. Leave 6 to 12 inches between rows, or in smaller gardens, space plants 2 inches apart in all directions. Germinates in approximately 1 week, keep soil moderately moist during germination.

Climbing French Beans

I started with Seed Savers Exchange Climbing French Bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) seeds. I planted them directly into the garden in full sun on August 22, 2009 for a fall crop. In the 1930's, Climbing French Beans were reportedly the most widely grown French bean in England, according to The Beans of New York. These beans produce 4 -7" inch stringless pods with lilac flowers and are great for eating raw. There seeds are shiny and dark purple. Climbing varieties of beans will produce pods all summer while dwarf compact bush beans tend to crop over a relatively short period of time.

Growing Tips: French Beans prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Area should be sheltered since beans can be vulnerable to chilly winds. Climbing beans will need support to grow, a trellis often works perfectly. Do not water young plants unless dry or the plant will focus on growing leaves, not peas. Once flowers develop, start watering on a regular basis. Water carefully at the roots, taking care not to splash the foliage.

Starting from Seed: Sow seeds outdoors after the danger of frost has passed and the soil and air temperatures have warmed (around early May). Also can be grown in late summer for a fall harvest. Seeds should be planted in an area where they have a spade and a half's depth to root since climbing beans are deep rooters. Plant seeds 1" deep and 2" apart in rows 36 - 48" apart.

Natural Pest Control: Aphids, both black and green can form colonies on growing shoots. If you are growing organic, rub off early colonies as soon as you spot them. Growing asters, marigolds and sedums near your beans will attract friendly pest predators that eat aphids.

Harvesting: French beans mature in 65 - 75 days and can be harvested late into summer so long as the crop is kept well watered. French beans suffer if they become too thirsty. Pick young and pick often. Young French bean pods are far tastier than mature pods. If you can see bean shapes bulging along the pods, the beans are past their best.

Tomatillos and When to Harvest

Tomatillo is also known as Toma Verde or the Green Tomato. It is not a tomato, it is a member of the nightshade family, related to tomatoes. Tomatillos are grown like a tomato and the leaves and plant look similar to a tomato however, that is where the similarities end. Most people don't know what to expect when growing Tomatillos because many people are generally unfamiliar with them.

The fruit of a Tomatillo is green (there are also purple and yellow varieties often grown outside the U.S.) and about the size of a small tomato or large cherry tomato. The inside flesh is white and meatier than a regular tomato and tomatillos grow inside a thin paper-like husk. The interesting thing is that the husk forms first and looks like a paper lantern hanging from the branches (see above image - My Tomatillo plant on August 21, 2009) and then the fruit grows inside until it fills the husk. If you look up at your Tomatillo from below the plant, you can see inside the husk and see your Tomatillo growing. Tomatillo plants often grow to about 5 or 6 feet tall and require caging or a support trellis.

Harvesting: Tomatillos are ripe when the paper-like husk turns brown and breaks open. Remove the husk and rinse the oily substance off. Store in a cool, dry place until you are ready to use them.

Connecticut Field Pumpkins

The most traditional pumpkin is the Jack-o-Lantern or as it is officially known, the Connecticut Field Pumpkin. They typically grow to 10 and 20 pounds, are bright orange and are perfect for Halloween carving. They are not especially good for eating, they are plain tasting and not very sweet and can be a bit watery if using for pie. However, this is the most common choice of home gardeners and commercial growers. (right) My Jack-o-Lantern pumpkin from Halloween 2008. (below) The pumpkin patch at Baggenstos Farm.

Growing Tips: All pumpkin varieties prefer full sun, at least 6 hours of direct each day. Soil should be kept moist but not wet. Most pumpkins require 110 - 140 frost free growing days, see the Starting from Seed section below for proper planting dates.

Starting from Seed: Pumpkins are tender annuals so note that frost will kill them and cold weather will stunt their growth when starting plants. Soak your seeds the night before planting to make sprouting easier and faster. Plant pumpkin seeds in the middle of small mounds (mounds should be 10 feet apart from other mounds) that are about 3 feet in diameter. Surround each mound with a moat, about 4" wide and 4" deep to help contain water around the roots. Plant 4 - 5 seeds in a circle in the middle of the mound, space seeds 6 - 8 inches apart and cover with at least 1" of soil so the birds don't eat them. After two weeks, thin to two or three of the strongest and largest plants per mound. When to plant your seeds:

• Giant Pumpkins: Start indoors from April 25 - May 15, transplant after the first true leaves form, provide cold and frost protection.
• Jack-o-Lanterns and Field Pumpkins: Directly sow into the garden from May 15 - June 15, provide cold and frost protection, if needed.
• Miniature Pumpkins: Direct sow into the garden from May 15 - July 1.
  

Peas do grow in Summer

This year, I was told and read that it was too late to plant Snow Peas and Sugar Snap Peas from seed. I decided to try anyways so I planted the seeds directly into the garden on May 18th (it is said peas should be planted right after the 1st frost as soon as soil is workable or in late summer for a fall crop, peas are a cool weather plant). Turns out, peas do grow in Summer! My plants are about 6 feet tall and flowering like crazy and just the other day, a pea pod emerged and more are quickly following. (right) My first pea pod in July 2009.

Go ahead, plant your peas in late Spring, what's the worst that could happen? If you don't get peas, the plants themselves are quite lovely to look at.

Astro Arugula II

I started with seeds of Astro Arugula II (Greens, Arugula/Roquette) from Johnny's Selected Seeds. This particular seed packet was tested for germ in March 2009 at 90%. Arugula is a vitamin-rich green with a tangy and peppery (or mustard-like) flavor that is wonderful in winter salads and cooked dishes. (right) My Arugula on Day 15, July 2, 2009. Sprouts are about 1" tall with small leaves on top. (bottom right) My Arugula on August 21, 2009.

Growing Tips: Arugula can be grown in full sun or partial shade in early spring and mid-summer and is well adapted to growing in cool greenhouses. Plant in well-drained garden soil. To slow bolting by keeping the soil evenly moist and providing some shade for warm-season plantings (this is traditional a cool-weather plant).

Seeding: Sow from early spring through mid-summer. Sow thinly, covering seeds 1/4" in rows about 18" apart. Thin to about 8" - 12" apart.

Harvesting: Arugula matures in 60 days, begin harvest at about 30 - 40 days after sowing. Arugula should be harvested before flowering however, they flowers are edible.

Sunflowers

I started with a 12" Sunflower from Al's Garden Center. Some consider Sunflower's a flower, others consider it a vegetable. Technically, it can be considered both because it is a flower that holds a great seed, full of protein and great for snacking. Sunflowers are basically seperated into three sizes, Giants which grow to over 10 feet, Regulars which grow from 6 - 10 feet and Miniatures which grow from 2 - 4 feet. (right) My miniature Sunflower on June 30, 2008. Minis are great for container gardening but not for seed harvest. (below) My miniature Sunflower on July 4th, 2009, this was its first bloom.

Growing Tips: Sunflowers prefer full sun and if grown in containers, the container should be deep and wide. Sunflowers need to grow their roots deep and wide to enable them to withstand winds and hold up their weight, especially the giant varieties. See 'Seeding' for spacing.

Placement: Sunflower blooms will always point their bloom faces to the rising sun in the East, keep this in mind when choosing a location for your Sunflowers.

Pests: Birds and Squirrels will start eating the Sunflower seeds before the seeds are completely ripe. To protect your plant, cover with a nylon stalking or netting.

Harvesting: Sunflowers mature in 70 - 90 days depending on the variety. Harvest seeds when the flower begins to die back and most the petals have fallen off. Cut off the flower head, leaving a few inches of the stalk, hang the stalks to dry in a well ventilated area. Do not stack to dry, this encourages mold. Once the flowers have dried, rub two flower heads together to extract the seeds which should release quite easily.

Seeding: Sunflower seeds are best grown outdoors directly into the garden however, after planting, cover the seeds with a screen because birds and animals often will dig these delicious seeds up. Based on the variety of Sunflower you are growing, spacing requirements change, see below.

• Giants: Space 3' feet apart in rows 3' - 4' apart.
• Regular: Space 2' feet apart in rows 3' apart

• Miniatures: Space 1' foot apart in rows 3' apart.

Cayenne Hot Pepper

I started with a 12" plant, Cayenne Hot Pepper grown locally from Iwasaki Bros. Cayenne Peppers are long, slender, very hot peppers that start out dark green and ripen to bright red. They are very strong, upright plants that love hot weather. Cayenne Peppers can be used for canning, drying, chili, salsa, pickling or eaten fresh. I planted my Cayenne Pepper in a large plastic container in full sun. (right) Some of my garden harvest from September 2008 including Jalapenos, Cayenne Peppers and Tomatoes.

Growing Tips: Cayenne Peppers prefer full sun and water regularly, especially in hot, dry summer months. Plant 18" - 24" apart in rows 24" - 36" apart.

Harvesting: Cayenne Peppers mature in 70 -75 days, harvest when fruit is bright red by clipping them off the plant, do not pull off.

Golden Bell Pepper : Organic

I started with a 6" starter plant, USDA Organic Golden Bell Pepper (Chile Campana Dorada) locally grown from Smith Gardens. Golden Bell Peppers are more sweet than spicy and have a beautiful golden yellow skin and flesh. I planted my Golden Bell Pepper directly into a large, deep plastic container in full sun. (right) My Bell Pepper is just starting to produce fruit about 1/2" - 1" in size.

Growing Tips: Bell Peppers prefer full sun and water regularly, especially in the hot, dry summer months (lack of water will give peppers a bitter taste). Bell Peppers grow 18" - 24" tall. Space plants 18" apart in rows 24" - 36" apart. Bell Peppers have very deep roots and require large, deep pots if grown in containers. Fertilize monthly.

Harvesting: Golden Bell Peppers mature in 75 days, harvest when fruit is golden yellow and firm.

Organic Jalapeno Pepper

I started with a 6" starter plant, USDA Organic Jalapeno Pepper locally grown from Smith Gardens. I planted my Jalapeno Pepper in a large plastic container in full sun next to all my other pepper plants. (right) My Jalapeno Plant from last year (2008). I grew it directly in my garden bed and it grew great, I had more fruit than I knew what to do with from the single plant.

Growing Tips: Jalapenos prefer full sun and lots of water. Space the plants 24" apart with about 2 - 3 feet between rows. Plants grow to about 3 feet tall. You can also mix in mushroom compost to make the soil fertile and moist. Fertilize monthly.

Harvesting: Jalapenos mature in 120 days. Pick when fruit is dark green and full size.

Pequin Pepper

I started with a 3' plant, Pequin Pepper from Al's Garden Center. Pequin Peppers are bright red (but can be picked when they are still green) and about 8 times hotter than a Jalapeno Pepper. They tend to look like outdoor christmas lights when they are ripe due to their size and color. I planted my Pequin Pepper into a large plastic container in full sun next to all my other pepper plants in the garden. (right) My Pequin Pepper plant right after transplant on June 25, 2009. (bottom right) My first Pequin Pepper that is ripening on August 21, 2009.

Growing Tips: Pequin Peppers grow naturally in the wild in Texas and prefer full sun and hot weather.

Harvesting: Pequin Peppers can be harvested when the peppers are bright red or still green. Harvested peppers can be stored in freezer bags in the freezer for 6 - 12 months without loosing much of their heat or flavor.

Red Sails Lettuce

I started with six 4" starter plants of Red Sails Lettuce from Al's Garden Center. I planted them directly into the garden 6" apart in two rows 6" apart in full sun. Red Sails lettuce is a loose-leaf lettuce with bronze-red, crinkled leaves. (right) My lettuce on June 25th, 2009, it is about 6" now.

Growing Tips: Red Sails Lettuce prefers full sun in Spring and Fall, part sun in Summer. Plant 8" apart.

Harvesting: Red Sails Lettuce matures in 45 days, cut off at base.

Roma Tomato

I started with a 4" starter plant, La Roma Tomato from Tanasacres Nursery. I planted my roma directly into the garden in full sun with a trellis to climb. Roma's are one of the best Italian -type tomatoes known for its outstanding vigor and heavy yields. (right top) My Roma Tomatoe on June 22, 2009, it is about 3' feet tall and is starting to flower. (right bottom) My Roma Tomato plant on August 22, 2009, new fruit. I have already harvested around 20 tomatoes from this plant. The tomatoes are very sweet and plump.

Growing Tips: Roma Tomatoes prefer full sun and consistent soil moisture. Water regularly throughout summer. Starting in August, water every other day. Space plants 24" - 36" apart in rows 36" - 48" apart.

Harvesting: Roma Tomatoes mature in 62 days, pick when fruit is bright red and firm.

Brandywine Heirloom Tomato

I started with a 4" starter plant, Brandywine Heirloom Tomato from Al's Garden Center. This specific variety is a 1885 heirloom Amish with large rose-pink fruit. I planted my Brandywine directly into the garden with a trellis to climb in full sun. (right) My Brandywine on August 21, 2009. Fruit is starting to grow quite large, around 5 - 6 inches in size. This is one of the larger tomatoes that has yet to ripen.

Growing Tips: Brandywine Tomatoes prefer full sun, plant 24" - 36" apart in rows 36" - 48" apart. Water regularly throughout summer. In August, water every other day to promote fruit growth.

Harvesting: Brandywine Tomatoes mature in 90 -100 days, pick when fruit is rose-pink and firm.

Jubilee Heirloom Tomato

I started with a 4" starter plant, Jubilee Heirloom Tomato from Chef Jeff's. Jubilee's are a bright orange color with a mild flavor and meaty texture, they are also less acidic than regular tomatoes. These make great tomatoes for those who cannot tolerate the high acid content of regular tomatoes. (right) My first ripe fruit on my Jubilee on August 21, 2009.

Growing Tips: Jubilee Tomatoes prefer full sun and require staking or a trellis to climb. Water regularly through summer. Starting in August, water every other day to help fruit develop. They will grow to 4' - 5' tall.

Harvesting: Jubilee's take 80 days to mature, pick when bright orange and firm.

Vitana Carrots

I started with six 6" starter plants, Vitana Carrots from Haggen. I planted them directly into a oversized terra-cotta pot in full sun. These carrots grow 6" - 7" roots and have a mild and sweet flavor with semi to fully blunt tips. (right) My carrots after transplant on June 22, 2009.

Growing Tips: Vitana Carrots prefer full sun and deep, loose soil. Plant in rows 16" - 24" apart.

Harvesting: Vitana Carrots mature in 65 days, you can pull from the garden when carrots are a bright orange, not pale. When they reach their bright orange color, harvesting generally lasts about 3 weeks. If you pull your carrots and they are cracked, they are past their harvest and will lack flavor and appearance.

Tomatillo : Organic

I started with one 2' starter plant Organic Tomatillo from Whole Foods. I planted it in a large, deep terra-cotta pot with a tomato cage for support in full sun. I did not know when I purchased this plant it needed a partner to cross-pollinate, so I am going to see what happens. At the very least, it is leafy and lovely to look at. (right) My lonely tomatillo on June 19, 2009.

Growing Tips: Tomatillo prefers full sun, hot weather (90 - 100 degrees fahrenheit) and lots of water. Grows 2 - 5' tall, plant 2' - 3' apart with a cage or lattis for support. Tomatillos are self-pollinating but are also self-incompatible meaning, two or more plants are needed to cross pollinate.

Harvesting: Tomatillo matures in about 70 days, harvest when fruit is 2" in diameter and green, remove husks before cooking.

Cherry Tomatoes

I started with a 6" starter plant, Cherry Tomato from Chef Jeff's. I planted it into a large, deep terra-cotta pot with a tomato cage for climbing in full sun. (right) My cherry tomatoes getting ready for harvest in September 2008.

Growing Tips: Cherry Tomatoes prefer full sun and something to climb however, this variety is a shorter, stocky plant. Plant 2' - 3' apart.

Placement: Grow your tomatoes next to basil and both will grow larger and healthier.

Harvesting: You can harvest your tomatoes throughout the growing season as they ripen. They are a prolific bearer and will mature in 68 days. (right) My Cherry Tomato plant in early October 2007. The tomatoes were very sweet and tasty.

English Cucumber

I started with four 4" starter plants, English Cucumber from Al's Garden Center. I planted my cucumber directly into the back row of the garden with a trellis for climbing support. (right top) My cucumber starter plants in June 2008. (right bottom) My first signs of cucumber on July 23, 2008.

Growing Tips: Cucumber prefers full sun, well drained and moist soil. It also needs some sort of support or trellis due to its climbing growth habbit. Cucumbers prefer temperatures around 70 degrees fahrenheit so be sure to plant after all risks of frost have passed.

Harvesting: Cucumbers can be harvested when full size, clip off the vine from stem.