'Early Bird Radiance' Carnations

My 'Early Bird Radiance' Carnations in May 2011, shortly after transplant.

I started with a 6" 'Early Bird Radiance' Carnation (Dianthus 'Early Bird Radiance' USPP) from Al's Garden Center.  This perennial has crimson red flowers and blooms from Spring to early summer (although mine is still blooming and it's now August, follow tips below).  It is compact, closer to a mini carnation, with greenish-blue foliage.

Growing Tips: Plant in full sun and water regularly.  Deadhead spent flowers for more blooms. In late July, trim back all stems from spent flowers, about 3" from the base of the plant for new blooms in August.

Perennial Tips: Trim back all stems from spent flowers, about 3" from the base of the plant at the end of the summer, cover with hazel nut shell mulch for the winter.

'Purity' Candytuft

My 'Purity' Candytuft in June 2011.

I started with a 4" 'Purity' Candytuft 'Iberis sempervirens perennial from Al's Garden Center.  This plant has very soft white flowers that almost look bouncy and lively in the garden atop dark green foliage. This plant is compact and low-growing, ideal for rock gardens or ground cover.

Growing Tips: Plant in full sun or PM shade, water 2 - 3 times per week or until established.  Grows 7 - 9" tall.

Perennial Tips: Once flower petals fall off, you can trim off the flower heads in the early Summer.

'Rominette Pink' English Daisy

My English Daisies in June 2011

A flower that keeps on blooming, tons of blooms from Spring through early summer with a nice soft pink color.  Great for low gardens and rock gardens.

Growing Tips: Plant in a cool place with moist soil, in sun or shade. Grows about 5" tall, water weekly during dry spells.

Perennial Tips: Pinch off dead blooms to encourage new blooms. Plant in a cool place for the best rebloom next season.

'Otto Quast' ('Quasti') Spanish Lavender

I started with a 4" starter 'Otto Quast' ('Quasti') Spanish Lavender, Lavandula stoechas, from Al's Garden Center. This particular variety of Lavender has very distinctive large purple flowers and attracts butterflies. (above) My lavender in May 2011, about a month after planting.

Growing Tips: Spanish Lavender prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Grows to 24-26" high and is hardy in zones 7 - 9.  Excellent indoor houseplant for colder climates.

Perennial Tips: Mulch base of plant in winter with hazelnut shells.  This hardy plant will do fine in winter, even with mild snows, if desired, bring indoors over winter.

Devon Cottage (TM) Rosie Cheeks

I started with a 8"Proven Selections Award Winning Devon Cottage (TM) Rosie Cheeks (Dianthus hybrid) carnation.  These carnations are perennials and come back the second year with twice as many blooms.  Blooms from spring to through summer. (above) My Rosie Cheeks in bloom in July.

Growing Tips: Rosie Cheeks prefer full to partial sun and grow 10" - 14" tall.  Water every other day or daily if weather is really hot. For best results, fertilize or feed every couple weeks.  Remove dead blooms to encourage new growth.

Perennial Tips: This is a perennial in zones 7 -11.  Before winter, remove all dead blooms and cover base of plant with hazelnut shells. 

Ruby's Tuesday Carnations

I have planted an Award Winning Devon Cottage (TM) Ruby's Tuesday Carnation (Dianthus hybrid) in a large terra cotta pot in full sun.  These carnations grow upright and bloom bright red flowers during Spring and Summer that attract butterflies and are excellent cut flowers (above, my Ruby's Tuesday in May 2010).

Growing Tips: Ruby's Tuesday Carnations prefer full to partial sun, regular watering.  Fertilizing is recommended for best results but I have never fertilized my carnations and they come back every year.  Grows 10" - 14" tall, space 18" apart.

Perennial Tips: Trim back flower stems in Fall for new blooms next year.  Cover exposed soil with hazelnut shell mulch during the winter. Note: This is an annual except in zones 7 - 11.

Old-Fashioned Bleeding Heart

Old-Fashioned Bleeding Hearts (Dicentra spectabilis) are perennials with striking flowers, usually in pink but can also be white that attract hummingbirds and are very pretty cut.  Bleeding Hearts prefer cool, moist soil which helps prevent summer dormancy. (above) My Bleeding Heart in May 2010.

Growing Tips:  Plant in partial sun or shade in zones 2 through 9.  Blooms midspring to summer and grows to 30" tall.  Space a minimum of 36" apart.  Adapts well to dry or moist conditions but keep watering to a regular schedule.

Perennial Tips: If your bleeding heart is in a place it really likes, it will almost double in size annually so be sure to leave plenty of room when deciding what to plant around it.  I put mine in a large tin washbucket and it LOVES it.  Pick off dead flowers to encourage new blooms all summer.

Pink Astilbe

Astilbe's are long blooming flowers held above airy foliage.  Astilbes are perennials that are one of the earliest plants to grow and love the shade, perfect for bringing color into darker areas of your garden.  My astilbe is actually planted under a large, shady tree where mostly moss finds its way, yet my pink astilbe loves it there and comes back twice its size every year before it.  Typically starts flowering in late May/early June and will bloom through Fall.  (right, my pink astilbe in June 2009)

Astilbes prefer partial shade but can grow in full sun if given plenty of water.  These plants are vitually pest free and will return yearly with little to no maintenance.  No deadheading is necessary but may be cut back in spring if desired.  Divide every 4 - 5 years.

Perennials with Extended Bloom Periods

These perennials have a colorful bloom period of 10 weeks or more. Plant them to maintain color in your garden for longer periods of time. (right) My Garden boxes in late Summer 2008.

• 'Monch' Aster (Aster frikartii 'Monch')
• Bellflower (Campanula carpatica, C. portenschlagiana)
• Red Valerian (Centranthus ruber)
• Shasta Daisy (Chrysanthemum maximum)
• Yellow Bleeding Heart (Corydalis lutea)
• Fringed Bleeding Heart (Dicentra exima)
• Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
• Blanketflower (Gaillardia)
• Butterfly Flower (Gaura lindheimeri)
• Baby's Breath (Gypsophila)
• Hollyhock (Alcea)
• Bee Balm (Monarda)
• Catmint (Nepeta cataria)
• Russian Sage (Perovskia atriciplifolia)
• Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida)
• Meadow Sage (Salvia nemerosa)
• Showy Stonecrop (Sedum telephium)

Tulips

Tulips are often the first sign of Spring since they bloom in early March through April. While Tulips are often associated with Holland, the Tulip originally hails from Persia, where Tulip means "turban". (right) My Red Tulip Valentines bouquet in 2008.

Growing Tips: Tulips prefer full sun and sandy, well drained soil.

Planting Tips: Plant bulbs in late October and early November for Spring flowers. Tulip bulbs should be planted in a depth three times the length of the bulb (typically 6 inches deep). Set the bulbs pointed-end up.

Perennial Tips: Tulips are classified as perennials but often need to be treated as annuals to promote better blooming the following season. At the end of the blooming season, dig up your tulips once all the foliage has died. Store the bulbs in a cool, dry place and replant in the fall. This does not mean Tulips will not come back if you don't dig them up and replant. You can also wait for the blooms and foliage to die back (foliage should be completely yellow) and then deadhead the plants. Fertilize in fall and you can expect blooms the following season, although they may not be as large or long lasting as the first year.

'Lucifer' Crocosmia

I have noticed these lovely flowers all over my neighborhood recently. They are a blog display of stiff, sword-like foliage with tall, slightly arched clusters of intense, bright colored blooms. Blooms appear from mid to late summer. These plants are called Crocosmia 'Lucifer'. They make excellent cut flowers, for best results, cut when half the flowers are open.

Growing Tips: Crocosmia prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Plant in groups of 5 or more for intense color impact. Grows well in containers.

Perennial Tips: Apply a heavy winter mulch, taking care not to cover the root base, in Northern climates.

Common Purple Lilacs

Lilacs are low-maintenance, aromatic shrubs and will grow several feet tall offering good summer shade and privacy from neighbors. One thing to know about Lilacs is they do not like to have their roots wet for prolonged periods of time. Lilacs grow best on hillsides, elevated areas or level ground with very good drainage. (right) My mother's Lilac bush, the Common Purple Lilac (Syringa Vulgaris).

Growing Tips: Lilacs prefer full sun to partial shade and infrequent but thorough waterings as they have deep roots. Fertilize in early spring to promote blooming, too much nitrogen in the soil will result in poor blooming. Repeat fertilizer after blooms have disappeared.

Perennial Tips: Mulch around the plant 2" - 4" deep but not directly on the base of the plant for winter. Be aware that mice and moles are the biggest pests of Lilacs and during winters will chew on the bark of the stems near ground level and can kill your Lilac plant, you can help prevent this by keeping the mulch away from the root base.

Summertime Orange African Daisy

I started with two different colors of African Daisy starter plants, Summertime Orange from the Symphony Series and Summertime Pink from the Passion Mix. I planted them into medium sized terra-cotta pots in full sun. African Daisies bloom best during cool weather and will brighten up your garden in Spring and Fall when garden color is minimal. African Daisies are recognized by their bright flowers and darker colored centers and can bloom white, peach, orange, yellow, pink, lavender or purple flowers. (right) My African 'orange' Daisies in September 2008.

Growing Tips: African Daisies prefer full sun and the potting mix should be light, moist and well drained. Fertilize every two weeks with half strength fertilizer. Deadhead to encourage new growth, pinch young blooms to encourage bushiness. Grows to 12" - 20" and spreads 10" - 20".

Titan Lilac Vinca

I started with a 4" starter plant, Titan Lilac Vinca from Al's Garden Center. I planted it directly into a medium sized terra-cotta pot in partial shade. Vinca are compact, bushy, glossy-leaved plants with showy bright colored flowers. This particular variety has blooms that are a bright lilac color. Vinca grows best in naturally shaded areas with filtered sunlight. It can also be used as a groundcover, it prevents weeds and soil erosion. In really hot weather, it should be moved to full shade during the hottest parts of the day. (right) My Titan Lilac Vinca after its first bloom in June 2009.

Growing Tips: Vinca prefers full sun (where weather is cooler) or partial shade. Water 2-3 times per week until established. Will grow to 14" - 16" tall.

Perennial Tips: If Vinca outgrows its space, it can be sheared back hard in early spring. The sheared off ends may root along the stems.

Bay Laurel

I started with a 3" starter plant, Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis) from Al's Garden Center. Bay Laurel is an evergreen shrub or small tree often grown as a tender perennial. It has aromatic foliage, cream flowers and dark berries. Bay Laurel leaves are used fresh or dried in soups, stews, meat dishes and French cooking. I planted my Bay Laurel into a small terra-cotta pot with the intent of transplanting at a later date. (right) This is my larger Bay Laurel, I have two, in June 2009. It is just starting to show the first signs of new growth since last summer.

Growing Tips: Bay Laurel prefers full sun to partial sun and requires well drained soil. Grows up to 5 feet tall in pot culture and grows best in containers.

Harvesting: Bay Laurel leaves can be harvested directly from the plant as needed or for drying.

Perennial Tips: Move indoors during winter in zones 7 or colder and place in a well lighted area or window.

Catnip

I started with two 4" starter plants, Catnip from Al's Garden Center. I planted my catnip side by side in a long terra-cotta pot in full sun. Catnip is a natural insect repellent against aphids, Colorado potato beetles and squash bugs. In addition, Catnip has a chemical called nepetalactone that is naturally found in the leaves of both catnip and catmint, this chemical is a natural deer repellent. (right) My catnip in late June. I placed it in the middle row of my herb garden.

Growing Tips: Catnip prefers full sun or partial shade. Pinch tips throughout the growing season to delay flowering. Once finished blooming, cut them back by one-third to one-half to encourage new growth for late summer, early fall.

Rosemary

I started with two 6" starter plants of Rosemary from Bonnie Plants. I planted my rosemary in large terra-cotta pots in full sun. Rosemary will draw honey bees to your garden, repel carrot flies outdoors and moths indoors. (right) My rosemary after transplant.

Growing Tips: Rosemary prefers full sun but tolerates partial shade. Grows to about 2' - 6' high and 2' - 3' wide. Water thoroughly when soil is dry, do not let soil dry out completely. Cuttings can be taken from the plant in spring to start new plants.

Harvesting: Rosemary can be harvested anytime, simply trim off stems from plant. Strip the leaves from the stems for fresh use. Rosemary should be brought inside before the first frost for year-round harvest.

Perennial Tips: Plants will become thin and lanky every few years. If being used for harvest, start over with a new rosemary plant every three years or so.

Daffodils

When I moved into my current house in the Fall, I had no idea there were even daffodil bulbs in the garden so it was a pleasant surprise when spring arrived. Daffodils are typically one of the first flowers to arrive in early spring (April) and will return year after year. Plus, they don't require much maintenance. (right) My daffodils in April 2008.


Growing Tips: Daffodils prefer full to partial sun and will grow in practically any type of soil. Plant bulbs 6" - 8" underground in October. They will bloom in late March or early April, no watering required (in the NW).


Perennial Tips: After blooming finishes and plants start to die, when leaves turn yellow, deadhead the plants (cut off to the ground) for new blooms to return the following year.

Chives

I started with chives from seed and starter plants, both work very well and are easy to grow. I planted my starter plants in a medium-sized terra-cotta pot (two plants in a single pot). This way, when I harvest one plant, the other will be growing for a constant harvest. (right) My chives in June 2008 right after I transplanted the starters.

Growing Tips: Chives prefer full sun and moist, well drained soil. If not growing for flowers, cut the plant to the ground two or three times during the growing season to promote fresh growth from the base. Bring indoors for the winter if grown in containers for year round harvest or keep outside and they will come back in spring.

Placement: Grow chives and carrots in close proximity, when grown together, carrots tend to grow larger.

Harvesting: Clip from plant as needed or two to three times during the growing season harvest the entire plant, clipping at the ground.

Lavender

I have a couple large lavender plants in my garden that have returned from last year. I have them planted in full sun, in large, terra-cotta pots. My lavender has a layer of twice-cracked hazelnut mulch covering the top soil, which helped them survive the winter snow. Lavender is also a natural herbicide. (right) My lavender is June 2008, I don't harvest my lavender so it is fully flowering.

Growing Tips: Lavender prefers full sun and well drained soil. In the northwest, lavender never needs supplemental watering and will do best on rainfall alone. Cover with mulch for winter.

Placement: Grow lavender near Thyme and vegetables, it will make them tastier and healthier.

Harvesting: Pick lavender just before the last flowers on the stalks fully open or grow to flower in the garden for the aromatics and lovely purple flowers. If harvested, cut the stems on a dry day before the heat of the sun draws out the oils.