Purple Top White Globe Turnip

I started with Purple Top White Globe Turnip (Brassica rapa) seeds from the Seed Savers Exchange. I planted them directly into the garden 1/4" deep and 4-6" apart. This variety of Turnip has been widely used since before 1880 and produces uniform 6" smooth white globes that are best for eating when 3-4" in diameter. They have a sweet mild fne-grained white flesh and a bright purple and white exterior. Turnips are biennial and will cross-polinate, so seperate by 1 mile from other turnips when going to seed the second year.

Growing Tips: Turnips prefer cool weather and full sun. Soil should be kept moist but not wet. Turnips are companion plants to onions and peas and can be planted near them.

Starting from Seed: Sow seeds as soon as soil can be prepared in the Spring or late July or early August (for a fall-winter crop). Plant seeds 1/4" - 1/2" deep, 2" between seeds in rows that are 24" apart. Thin to 4-6" between plants.

Harvesting: Turnips mature in 45-65 days and should be harvested when they reach 3" in diameter.

Scarlet Globe Radish

I started with Early Scarlet Globe Radish seeds from Ed Hume Seeds. This particular variety is great for eating fresh, using in salads or as garnish. I planted the seeds directly into the garden 1/4 deep, 2" apart in two rows, 2" apart. Radishes are an easy to grow crop that yields rapidly and can be planted from March through September.

Growing Tips: Radishes prefer full to partial sun. Radish grows best in the spring and autumn but will tolerate light winter frosts.

Harvesting Tips: Radishes mature and are ready for harvest in 24 days. Pull radishes when they are up to 1" in diameter and relatively young. Check your radishes often because the window of when they go from tasty to terrible is a relatively short period of time.

Starting from Seed: Sow seeds directly into the vegetable garden anytime soil is workable from March to September. Avoid planting radishes during really hot weather. Cover seeds with 1/4" of light soil. Leave 6 to 12 inches between rows, or in smaller gardens, space plants 2 inches apart in all directions. Germinates in approximately 1 week, keep soil moderately moist during germination.

Climbing French Beans

I started with Seed Savers Exchange Climbing French Bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) seeds. I planted them directly into the garden in full sun on August 22, 2009 for a fall crop. In the 1930's, Climbing French Beans were reportedly the most widely grown French bean in England, according to The Beans of New York. These beans produce 4 -7" inch stringless pods with lilac flowers and are great for eating raw. There seeds are shiny and dark purple. Climbing varieties of beans will produce pods all summer while dwarf compact bush beans tend to crop over a relatively short period of time.

Growing Tips: French Beans prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Area should be sheltered since beans can be vulnerable to chilly winds. Climbing beans will need support to grow, a trellis often works perfectly. Do not water young plants unless dry or the plant will focus on growing leaves, not peas. Once flowers develop, start watering on a regular basis. Water carefully at the roots, taking care not to splash the foliage.

Starting from Seed: Sow seeds outdoors after the danger of frost has passed and the soil and air temperatures have warmed (around early May). Also can be grown in late summer for a fall harvest. Seeds should be planted in an area where they have a spade and a half's depth to root since climbing beans are deep rooters. Plant seeds 1" deep and 2" apart in rows 36 - 48" apart.

Natural Pest Control: Aphids, both black and green can form colonies on growing shoots. If you are growing organic, rub off early colonies as soon as you spot them. Growing asters, marigolds and sedums near your beans will attract friendly pest predators that eat aphids.

Harvesting: French beans mature in 65 - 75 days and can be harvested late into summer so long as the crop is kept well watered. French beans suffer if they become too thirsty. Pick young and pick often. Young French bean pods are far tastier than mature pods. If you can see bean shapes bulging along the pods, the beans are past their best.

Button Box Zinnia

I started with Button Box Zinnia's (Zinnia elegans) in mixed colors from Lake Valley Seeds. I started the seeds indoors in peet pods and transplanted outdoors in mid-summer. This specific variety of Zinnia grows quite tall, around 2 - 3 feet and produce an abundance of flowers that bloom from midsummer until frost. They are easy to grow and thrive in hot areas however, be prepared to provide support for these Zinnia's as they do grow tall and skinny. (right) My Button Box Zinnia's in full bloom in August 2009. I started these from seed in late May.


Growing Tips: Zinnia's prefer full sun and regular waterings. To avoid spreading disease to the plant leaves (which is a common problem with Zinnia's), water plants at their base taking care to keep the foliage dry. Remove faded flowers to encourage new blooms.

Starting from Seed: Sow directly in the garden after danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed. Seeds may be started indoors 4 weeks before planting outdoors. Transplant carefully so as not to disturb the roots. Space seeds 10 - 12 inches apart, 1/4 inch deep. Seeds should sprout in 10 - 12 days outdoors or 2 - 6 days indoors. Plant as an annual.

Connecticut Field Pumpkins

The most traditional pumpkin is the Jack-o-Lantern or as it is officially known, the Connecticut Field Pumpkin. They typically grow to 10 and 20 pounds, are bright orange and are perfect for Halloween carving. They are not especially good for eating, they are plain tasting and not very sweet and can be a bit watery if using for pie. However, this is the most common choice of home gardeners and commercial growers. (right) My Jack-o-Lantern pumpkin from Halloween 2008. (below) The pumpkin patch at Baggenstos Farm.

Growing Tips: All pumpkin varieties prefer full sun, at least 6 hours of direct each day. Soil should be kept moist but not wet. Most pumpkins require 110 - 140 frost free growing days, see the Starting from Seed section below for proper planting dates.

Starting from Seed: Pumpkins are tender annuals so note that frost will kill them and cold weather will stunt their growth when starting plants. Soak your seeds the night before planting to make sprouting easier and faster. Plant pumpkin seeds in the middle of small mounds (mounds should be 10 feet apart from other mounds) that are about 3 feet in diameter. Surround each mound with a moat, about 4" wide and 4" deep to help contain water around the roots. Plant 4 - 5 seeds in a circle in the middle of the mound, space seeds 6 - 8 inches apart and cover with at least 1" of soil so the birds don't eat them. After two weeks, thin to two or three of the strongest and largest plants per mound. When to plant your seeds:

• Giant Pumpkins: Start indoors from April 25 - May 15, transplant after the first true leaves form, provide cold and frost protection.
• Jack-o-Lanterns and Field Pumpkins: Directly sow into the garden from May 15 - June 15, provide cold and frost protection, if needed.
• Miniature Pumpkins: Direct sow into the garden from May 15 - July 1.
  

Peas do grow in Summer

This year, I was told and read that it was too late to plant Snow Peas and Sugar Snap Peas from seed. I decided to try anyways so I planted the seeds directly into the garden on May 18th (it is said peas should be planted right after the 1st frost as soon as soil is workable or in late summer for a fall crop, peas are a cool weather plant). Turns out, peas do grow in Summer! My plants are about 6 feet tall and flowering like crazy and just the other day, a pea pod emerged and more are quickly following. (right) My first pea pod in July 2009.

Go ahead, plant your peas in late Spring, what's the worst that could happen? If you don't get peas, the plants themselves are quite lovely to look at.

Triple Curled Parsley

I started with seeds of Triple Curled Parsley (Petroselinum hortensis) from Seed Savers Heirloom Seeds. This particular seed pack was packed in 2008 and is a biennial. I started my seeds indoors in pods, while sprouting they were kept covered in a dark room and once leaves started to develop, I moved the plants into a sunny window, uncovered. The plants at about 3" tall were transplanted into a terra-cotta pot and kept in the sunny window until they were strong enough to be moved outdoors to full sun. (right) My Curled Parsley on July 2, 2009 after moving outside.

Growing Tips: Curled Parsley prefers full sun to partial shade and well drained, rich soil.

Seeding: Sow seeds outdoors 1/4" deep when there is still a chance of a light frost (or sow indoors year-round). Seeds germinate in 14-21 days.

Harvesting: Harvest Parsley anytime after 30 days when leaves are curly and green. Trim off and use as needed.

Astro Arugula II

I started with seeds of Astro Arugula II (Greens, Arugula/Roquette) from Johnny's Selected Seeds. This particular seed packet was tested for germ in March 2009 at 90%. Arugula is a vitamin-rich green with a tangy and peppery (or mustard-like) flavor that is wonderful in winter salads and cooked dishes. (right) My Arugula on Day 15, July 2, 2009. Sprouts are about 1" tall with small leaves on top. (bottom right) My Arugula on August 21, 2009.

Growing Tips: Arugula can be grown in full sun or partial shade in early spring and mid-summer and is well adapted to growing in cool greenhouses. Plant in well-drained garden soil. To slow bolting by keeping the soil evenly moist and providing some shade for warm-season plantings (this is traditional a cool-weather plant).

Seeding: Sow from early spring through mid-summer. Sow thinly, covering seeds 1/4" in rows about 18" apart. Thin to about 8" - 12" apart.

Harvesting: Arugula matures in 60 days, begin harvest at about 30 - 40 days after sowing. Arugula should be harvested before flowering however, they flowers are edible.

Sunflowers

I started with a 12" Sunflower from Al's Garden Center. Some consider Sunflower's a flower, others consider it a vegetable. Technically, it can be considered both because it is a flower that holds a great seed, full of protein and great for snacking. Sunflowers are basically seperated into three sizes, Giants which grow to over 10 feet, Regulars which grow from 6 - 10 feet and Miniatures which grow from 2 - 4 feet. (right) My miniature Sunflower on June 30, 2008. Minis are great for container gardening but not for seed harvest. (below) My miniature Sunflower on July 4th, 2009, this was its first bloom.

Growing Tips: Sunflowers prefer full sun and if grown in containers, the container should be deep and wide. Sunflowers need to grow their roots deep and wide to enable them to withstand winds and hold up their weight, especially the giant varieties. See 'Seeding' for spacing.

Placement: Sunflower blooms will always point their bloom faces to the rising sun in the East, keep this in mind when choosing a location for your Sunflowers.

Pests: Birds and Squirrels will start eating the Sunflower seeds before the seeds are completely ripe. To protect your plant, cover with a nylon stalking or netting.

Harvesting: Sunflowers mature in 70 - 90 days depending on the variety. Harvest seeds when the flower begins to die back and most the petals have fallen off. Cut off the flower head, leaving a few inches of the stalk, hang the stalks to dry in a well ventilated area. Do not stack to dry, this encourages mold. Once the flowers have dried, rub two flower heads together to extract the seeds which should release quite easily.

Seeding: Sunflower seeds are best grown outdoors directly into the garden however, after planting, cover the seeds with a screen because birds and animals often will dig these delicious seeds up. Based on the variety of Sunflower you are growing, spacing requirements change, see below.

• Giants: Space 3' feet apart in rows 3' - 4' apart.
• Regular: Space 2' feet apart in rows 3' apart

• Miniatures: Space 1' foot apart in rows 3' apart.

Chives

I started with chives from seed and starter plants, both work very well and are easy to grow. I planted my starter plants in a medium-sized terra-cotta pot (two plants in a single pot). This way, when I harvest one plant, the other will be growing for a constant harvest. (right) My chives in June 2008 right after I transplanted the starters.

Growing Tips: Chives prefer full sun and moist, well drained soil. If not growing for flowers, cut the plant to the ground two or three times during the growing season to promote fresh growth from the base. Bring indoors for the winter if grown in containers for year round harvest or keep outside and they will come back in spring.

Placement: Grow chives and carrots in close proximity, when grown together, carrots tend to grow larger.

Harvesting: Clip from plant as needed or two to three times during the growing season harvest the entire plant, clipping at the ground.

Half Long Heirloom Carrots

I started with Danver's Half Long Heirloom Carrot seeds from Seed Savers. I planted them directly into the soil in late May in two rows about 4" apart, sprinkled the seeds into a 1/4" deep row and covered them.

• Day 1 (05.23.09): Planted seeds 1/4" deep in the ground.
• Day 10 (06.01.09: Sprouts begin to appear.
• Day 19 (06.09.09): Sprouts are now about 1" tall, trimmed back excess sprouts.
• Day 41 (07.01.09): Soil has become overly compact from heavy rains and drastic shifts in weather from hot to cold. Recycled carrots due to poor growing conditions.

Sugar Snap Peas

I started with Snap Peas (Super Sugar Snap, Pole variety) seeds. I planted the seeds directly into the soil in May after frost had passed. I have been told that I may have gotten started too late in the season (apparently peas should be started as soon as the ground is workable), but I am going to see what happens anyway. If they turn out, great! If not, well I suppose that I will know better for next year. I have created an A frame with poles and string for the peas to climb. (right) Snap Peas are the two rows on the right.

• Day 1 (05.18.09): Planted seeds in two rows 4" apart with 2" between seeds.
• Day 8 (05.26.09): Sprouts begin to appear
• Day 12 (05.30.09): Plants show leaves and are about 1" tall. Three seeds did not sprout at all.
• Day 22 (06.09.09): Plants are about 6" tall and start to develop vines for climbing.
• Day 26 (06.13.09): Plants are about 1 - 2 feet tall.
• Day 32 (06.19.09): Plants are about 3 - 4 feet tall (see right).
• Day 43 (06.30.09): Plants are 4 feet tall and starting to overgrow their staking.
• Day 46 (07.03.09): Plants are 4 - 5 feet tall and flowering. Taller staking was added.
• Day 53 (07.10.09): Fruit has started to appear on plants, peas pods are growing quickly.

Growing Tips: Podded Peas enjoy cool weather growing conditions and should be planted during early spring, with a second crop planted during late summer for a fall harvest. Peas will require a trellis or some support for growing since they are a climbing plant.

Seeding: Sow peas about an inch deep directly into the soil as soon as soil is workable in early spring.

Harvesting: Sugar Snap Peas should be harvested when the pods are plump and have reached full size. Don't allow pods to shrivel out and dry on the vines.

Snow Peas : Organic

I started with organic Snow Peas (Mammoth Melting Sugar) seeds. I planted the seeds directly into the soil in May after frost had passed. I have been told that I may have gotten started too late in the season (apparently peas should be started as soon as the ground is workable), but I am going to see what happens anyway. If they turn out, great! If not, well I suppose that I will know better for next year. I have created a A frame with poles and string for the peas to climb. (right) Snow Peas are the two rows on the center left.

• Day 1 (05.18.09): Planted seeds in two rows 6" apart and 3" between each seed.
• Day 5 (05.23.09): Tiny sprouts begin to appear.
• Day 8 (05.26.09): Almost all have sprouted and are about 1" - 2" tall.
• Day 12 (05.30.09): Plants have begun to grow leaves.
• Day 22 (06.09.09): Plants are about 6" tall and vines have started to develop.
• Day 25 (06.12.09): Plants are about 1 foot tall and vines are started to wrap themselves around the poles.
• Day 32 (06.19.09): Plants are about 3 - 4 feet tall.
• Day 46 (07.03.09): Plants are about 4 - 5 feet tall and flowering.
• Day 53 (07.10.09): Fruit is appearing, pea pods are growing quickly.

Brocade Marigold

I started with Brocade Marigold's from Lake Valley Seeds. The method I used to start the seeds were with peet pods which are these little rounds of dirt that sit inside a plastic container with a see-through lid. You can find these at almost any garden store and are great for starting seeds indoors. The instructions for getting the seeds started in peet pods are included with the pods and are easy to follow. Brocade Marigolds are compact, bushy plants with rich deep-red and bright gold-orange blossoms. They will flower from early spring until frost and are rarely bothered by heat or insects and are very fragrant. (right) These are some Brocade Marigolds I already have planted in my garden.

• Day 1 (06.08.09): Planted two seeds per pod, covered and let sit in a warm, dark spot.
• Day 3 (06.11.09): Sprouts begin to appear.
• Day 10 (06.18.09): Transplanted into terra-cotta pots, trimmed back smaller plant of each pod.
• Day 11 (06.19.09): Plants are about 2" tall with two little leaves and two tiny jagged leaves in the middle. (see right)
• Day 18 (06.26.09): Plants are 3" tall with four large leaves. Stems are turning a reddish green color and are getting thicker.
• Day 54 (08.01.09): Plants are 6" tall with flower buds, some have already bloomed. Transplanted outside. (see bottom right)

Growing Tips: Marigolds prefer full sun and water when top soil is dry. I recommend that you clip the flower heads when they begin to turn downward to encourage new growth and flowering.


Starting from Seed: Start seeds outdoors after all danger of frost has passed. Plants may be started indoors four to six weeks before transplanting. Keep young plants evenly moist until established. In mild climates plants may be started in late summer for fall-winter blooms. Plant seeds 2" apart, 1/4" deep, 8 - 10" apart. Sprouts should appear within 5 - 7 days and will grow to an average height of 10 - 12" tall. Plant as an annual.

Daisy : English

I started with English Daisy seeds from Lilly Miller, these are perennials so they will come back every year. The method I used to start the seeds were with peet pods which are these little rounds of dirt that sit inside a plastic container with a see-through lid. You can find these at almost any garden store and are great for starting seeds indoors. The instructions for getting the seeds started in peet pods are included with the pods and are easy to follow.

• Day 1 (06.08.09): Sprinkled seeds on pod, you do not want to cover these particular seeds. Then I put the lid on and let sit in a warm, dark spot.
• Day 3 (06.11.09): Sprouts begin to appear.
• Day 11 (06.19.09): Spouts are about 1" tall.
• Day 25 (07.03.09): Srouts are growing a very pretty shade of green, small round leaves.

Zinnia : Mixed Colors

I started with Mixed Color Zinnia's from Lake Valley Seeds. The method I used to start the seeds were with peet pods which are these little rounds of dirt that sit inside a plastic container with a see-through lid. You can find these at almost any garden store and are great for starting seeds indoors. The instructions for getting the seeds started in peet pods are included with the pods and are easy to follow. (right) These are the Zinnia's I planted in my garden in 2008 from 2" starter plants, this photo was taken when they were in full bloom in August.

• Day 1 (06.08.09): Planted two seeds per pod, covered and let sit in a warm, dark spot.
• Day 2 (06.10.09): Sprouts begin to appear.
• Day 3 (06.11.09): Sprouts are now about 1" tall, all sprouts have come up.
• Day 4 (06.12.09): Sprouts are now about 2" tall, removed the lid, moved to sunny window and trimmed back 1 sprout from each pod.
• Day 11 (06.19.09): Plants are now 4" tall and have two larger leaves with two tiny leaves in the middle (see right).
• Day 14 (06.22.09): Plants are still 4" tall but have four equally sized leaves.
• Day 18 (06.26.09): Plants are 5" tall with four large leaves on top and two smaller leaves lower on the stem.
• Day 25 (07.03.09): Plants are 6" - 8" tall with leaves on top and half way down the stem. Only three plants from original 10 have survived, the plants seem to grow so tall, so quickly, they cannot support their own weight.
• Day 53 (08.01.09): Plants are around 2 feet tall with flower buds and some have started to bloom. I have had to stake again because they are so tall and floppy. Only two plants have survived the growing, one has deep orange colored flowers and the other, peach. Transplanted outdoors.

Growing Tips: Zinnia's should be grown in full sun in rich, well drained and moist soil. Zinnia's make great clipping flowers and will bloom new flowers until the first frost. To keep mildew from the leaves, do not wet the foilage when watering. If leaves begin to yellow from the bottom up, you are over watering and the yellow leaves should be removed.